Making rib Roofing

"The Idea for Rib Roofing and where got I it"

I am always on the lookout for something new to use in modeling and I saw something at the 2001 ECLSTS that I just had to try.
The winning Model, shown above, was a coal tipple built by Richard Weatherby. Dick has a method for making ribbed covering for the bottom of the bunkers on his tipple, and I think that they would work for roofing and siding also. I want to thank Dick for explaining how he made the panels and where I could buy the break tool he used.

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Buying a Break Tool."

I ask Dick what kind of tool he used to make his Panels. Dick said he bought a *sheet metal break tool at "Home Depot." As soon as I located a Home Depot, I bought the tool. The tool comes with a 3" jaw, but you can buy an extra set of 7" and 10" jaws. Dick suggested, and I agree with him buy the longer jaw set you will need them, especially 10" jaws. The tool, made by "Amerimax", can be found in the siding or sheet metal department at Home Depot. Look at the jaws and see how they match, I found one pair that were way out of line, the pair I bought were a little out, but a fine file evened up the front edge of the jaws.
*A sheet metal break is used to make straight sharp bends, from a few Degrees to over 90 degrees.

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"Making Metal Rib Roofing and Siding.

"Getting Started."

The way I have been making my roofing, there is a rounded rib.

Making roofing using Dicks way it has a sharp flat rib.

There are a few other tools that will you will need.

Making this new style of roofing begins in the same way as the other styles of roofing, with making a jig. I used Popular again, for its hardness for mine.
The jig is cut little deeper than the other jigs [1/8" X 1/8"] at about 1/8" wide by 7/16" deep. They have to be a little deeper to allow extra metal for the brake tool to grip. Again trial and error may tell you how much metal you need to get a grip. You will see what I mean further on.
Through trial and error I have found the grove spacing for the jig, on centers. For 1' [1/2" scale]grove spacing of 7/8", for 2' [1/2" scale] it is 1-3/8". I have found when bending that it is hard to keep the rib spacing, it may very a fraction one way or they other. Some times you can see it and others not. I don't think it is important, unless you want everything perfect and you have the time to re-work the piece. .
Assuming that you have your jig made we will move on.

Note:
When you put the metal on the jig, allow at least 1" from the first grove so you have metal to form the finished edge. It is not necessary that you make the roof in one long piece. Making a joint to overlap pieces is easy and is not readily noticeable. Make your groves in the metal then go to the next step.


Using a flat solid surface. Align the tool on each side of the grove.	Holding the tool straight up, center the work in the middle of the tool so that you will get an even rib. push down on the tool and hold the downward pressure as you squeeze the handles together.	If all has gone right you should have a rib like this. Check to make sure the rib square with the bottom.


Carefully cut alongside the rib of the one piece you want to join.	I ground off the point of a blade to use to open the seam on the rib.	Carefully open the seam, checking to see if it will slip over a rib.


When you are going to join two pieces you make the grove for the rib deeper so the rib will be bigger. I you don't the panels will not lay flat.	When the seam is opened place it over the rib of the piece you want to join.	Using the tool press the top piece down over the rib and squeeze it in place.


I mark the rib where I want to be the edge of the roof. Then flatten the metal so that I have at least 1" or more from the ridge. Then cut off the extra length.	I make a 90 degree bend at the rib using the break tool.	Place a piece of your roof base material against the bend. Put the break tool on the metal and down to the roof base, holding the tool tightly remove the base material. Now carefully make a bend of almost 90 degrees. This is so the metal will fit over the roof base later.


Measure in 3/4" from the outside edge and trim the extra metal away. If you are going to make it permanent put glue on the base, then fit the metal to the finished roof base.	With a small hammer lightly tap the metal to the base.	Allow a 1/4" of overhang of metal. Cut at 45 degrees from the corner to give a finished look.