"Introduction"
To save confusion since the material has many names. I will refer to the material as, just plain "Plastic Board".
The best part of using plastic board is the part that it is free for the asking.
Every Gas Station, Dairy Store, Super Market, has signs of all sorts and is a source of this building material.
For the Novice scratch builder, Plastic Board is an easy way to scratch build.
Using the plastic board for building has advantages over other building material, but lacks the detail in the finished building achieved when using wood.
This doesn't mean that details can't be added to the Plastic Board before assembling . I will take up that subject in another section.
If this is the first time you are trying to use the Plastic Cardboard for building and have used other materials to build with before. I think you will be pleased with how easy it is to use.
This type of material also holds up out-doors and takes paint well when applied properly.
I find using a Utility Knife best for cutting across the cells and can be used in cutting through the length of the Plastic Board also.
While the Plast-Kut knife will cut through both sides evenly running the length of the cells.
At this point it would be handy to have a
Plast-Kut knife it makes a clean cut and no need for a straight edge or measuring tape when cutting along the cells.
To insure that the paint and glue bonds well to the plastic, Before using buff both sides with fine steel wool.
Clean all plastic well to remove oils, etc. When your model is finished clean it again to remove the dirt and the oils from your hands.
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"Tools"
A few basic tools are all that is needed to build a the building. The basic tools for cutting would be a utility knife or Xacto knife, Xacto hard back saw, Modeling Miter box and a straight edge, pencil and felt tip pen.
I recommend buying a Plast-Kut knife when working with the Plastic Board, it makes a clean cut and no need for a straight edge or measuring tape when cutting along the length of the cells.
A Hot Glue gun, is useful in holding joints together temporarily when using outdoor type Glues, such as "Goop, etc.", which require longer set up times eliminating the need to clamp the glued joint.
"Cutting Plastic Board"
Lay out your cutting lines on the plastic. Cut out all pieces you need for your project at one time.
You can cut the Plastic Board with a utility knife and straight edge or a Band Saw.
| When I want to make more than one building. I stack multiple pieces cutting them with my band saw. To make a stack for cutting you can put a spot of hot glue between the pieces plastic to hold the stack together while cutting. |
I might use the same size ends for different buildings, but the length of buildings may very. |
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"Corrugated Plastic Knife"
When working with corrugated plastic, you will want to get one of these knives for cutting the material. Before buying my tool I used a utility knife for cutting.
I'm not go into details on the basic uses for the knife, the basics and different shapes that can be cut can be found on the
Plastkut site pages.
I will go more into detail later on how I have used the knife to add texture to my panels.
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"Trim and Molding"
Besides the Plastic Board you will need some panel "Outside Corner Trim", "Edge Trim", and two types of "Inside Corner Trim" that comes in 8-foot pieces, bought it at Loews at under $2.50 each. I bought the white trim for my use, paint covers white easier, and white is the cheapest.
| Cut moulding as above for framing in doors and windows. |
Cut moulding as above for corner and soffit use. |
"Adding the Corner Trim"
Left above, cut to use as corner mold. Right original molding.
The glue I am using is "Goop, Marine". This glue is clear, water proof, paint-able, and stays flexible.
Dry fit the trim to be sure it will fit. I find it best to glue the corner trim on the end sections of my building first.
Glue the trim to the building end sections by applying the glue to the trim then pushing it onto the end section. Make sure the trim goes all the way onto the end section. I find the trim can slip back off if left alone. I use hot glue to hold the trim in place till the glue sets. Most glues set up overnight.
Any glue that might squeeze out of the trim can be removed now or later by running a knife along the trim, then peel the excess glue off. Glue on the inside can be left alone. After the glue dries I cut the trim to match the pitch of the roof.
With the trim glued on the end sections. The Front and back sections can be glued to the end sections.
When gluing the front and back panels to the trim I have found it almost impossible to clamp the pieces together as they have a tendency to slip apart or buckle the Plastic.
Caution even low temp glue guns are hot.
I use my glue gun with low temperature glue to temporary spot weld the parts together. Hold the corner square while the hot glue sets. A damp rag can be applied to the hot glue to cool it while holding the joint together.
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"Cutting Trim for Doors and Windows"
I trim the edge moulding for different uses.
Above left, shows the trim cut for use in door and window framing, above rigth shows the original moulding. I cut the trim down to 5/16" for my use. I am not giving any measurements for length of the trim pieces as I have found different moulding brands are not all the same and very in thickness. Allowing for the window,and the thickness of the trim material, cut your door and window openings in your walls. Since the materials may very, cut the trim to fit the openings by trial and error to get the measurement needed.
| Above shows the way I cut the framing to fit the openings. I use lighting grid for my window frames and cut my opening large enough for the frame and trim. Hands on, trial and error is the rule to find what works best for you. |
Tilt the top piece to slide it into place. For window frames, slide in top and bottom frame pieces then side frames. |
Slide the side door frames up from the bottom. After the window frames are in, put the window in and push the window frames thight against the window and check alignment. |
Cut pieces of trim to lenght. Ends must then be cut out of the pieces of trim to slide into door and window openings. I use a utility knife to make the cuts as shown above.
To add a finished look to your door and window frames I used filler to even out the frames where they join. I tried two different types of filler. The green Squadron filler and the Testor's white model filler. I prefer the Testor's over the green type. The Testor's can be smoothed out using a little denature alcohol on your finger tip. "Using a glove for protection."
"Adding Trim to Building Ends"
To give a finished look to building ends at the roof line a piece of trim can be added that serves two purposes, looks and a gluing surface for the roof.
Cut the trim to match the angle of the building sides. Images are just examples, not cut to fit.
You can use the same trim along the top of the front and back walls to make them more ridged and less likely to bend or warp. This also gives more surface for gluing on the roof
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"Adding the Little Extras for the Finished Look."
There are a number of things you an do to enhance your model. Add a finish to the top edges of the building or adding a textured clap board look.
Using two different types of inside corner mold for the trim.
By trimming and shaping the ends of the molding you can give a different look to the tops of you buildings.
"Making it look like clapboard siding."
| To get the clapboard look to the siding I used the Plast-Kut tool to cut through one side of the cells in the plastic cardboard. |
Them used a thin knife blade to go from side to side in the slot letting the bottom side of the cell slide over the section below it. When using this way to make clapboard siding it will be necessary to back up each wall with another piece of material as the clapboard piece will be flimsy do to cutting the cells. |
"Roof and Siding"
You can use Plastic Board for roofing and siding by seperating it into two identical pieces.
| Plastic cardboard can be cut in half using the Plasti-Kut tool.
Since it cuts evenly and you have two identical pieces to use. These pieces can be use in different ways. As siding on a building or as a roof.
The picture above shows the tool in use, separating the board in half. Cutting just one cell a time. |
The picture above shows using the half section as a seamless roof. Using a straight edge as a guide cut just the ribs, then bend the piece at the cut to make a roof and you have a seamless roof.
|
Here you have the the roof uncut and makes a smooth roof ridge |
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"Corner and Roof Trim."
Introduction
Trim and Support for Walls
Cutting in the corners
Trim on the End Walls at the Roof peak.
The Roof Ridge
This is and attempt to help with some of the finer details on making a building using panel trim and plastic cardboard. This will cover cutting trim for neater corners to roof trim. Roof Ridge and to roof connection. Trim for front and back walls which will also add support to long sections of walls.
This should help those who want a building that will be seen up closer.
Corner Panel Trim cut down to use as trim for top of wall and corner trim.
It takes time to layout the cuts you need to give the corners a nice finished look but it is worth it.
I start with the end of the building. Find the center of the end walls and mark it from the peak down an inch or so.
Place trim on the sides and top and traced the edge on the wall. Using a straight edge this aloud you to transfer the lines to the trim for the angle of the cut.
With the end and top trim on the front and back walls. The corner must be trimmed so the top trim of the ends of the building fit in, to make the complete Front and End wall corner. Using the images above for reference cut away the section as shown.
Cut two pieces of trim for the top of end wall, 1" longer then needed. One at a time place them onto the wall extending past the line traced on each side of the wall earlier. Using a straight edge mark the angle onto the trim for the first cut. Turn the trim with the ribs up. Cut the center rib out of the trim notching it as in the image.
Do this to both sides making sure they are a close fit. The cuts do not have to be a perfect cut as any small openings can be filled in with filler and sanded down.
One at a time put each piece top trim in place. Fitting it into the corner and pushed down onto the wall. It may take a little trimming to get the trim to fit snug on the wall top if the cut is a little off and it rocked. I had this problem, I trimmed the wall in the middle to make the trim fit in the corner and at the peak. When the trim is snug use an straight edge to transfer the center line onto the trim as the cut point. do this with all pieces.
Using a piece of scrap about 3/8" wide. transfer the roof angle and cut. Place the cut piece in place and mark a cut line as then cut to size, they can be glued on once the top pieces are glued on.
The Roof Ridge.
The roof ridge and cap are one in the same. The piece is made by cutting of the bottom section of the "Panel Splice Trim" shown in the image above.
Cut a piece of the same trim that will fit inside between the end walls. It will be glued at the peak under the roof and roof ridge to strengthen the roof.
