"Some Methods for Making Brick and Stone Wall's "

BY Yogi Wallace


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"Magic Brick"



Looking for ways to make brick and stone panels to use for buildings, I checked out different materials and bought a kit's to make bricks and flag-stone. The kit "Magic Brick" is made for 1" doll house brick, but can be used as cut stone if left rough, when finished flat it looks as good brick. Magic brick came in 1/2" scale but is very hard to work with, I don't think it is still available. The kit contains everything needed to cover 9 square feet of surface. The masking material is easy to work with.

Note:

When I remove the mask I clean it off and save it for a future project on wax paper or Saran-wrap because of the adhesive. When I'm ready to use it again I spray it with the temporary glue to make it stick.

A short note on how it is used:

The walls of the structure should complete and assembled!
1. All door and window openings should be cut in the surface before masking.
2. The surface is painted with a latex paint, acrylic latex is what I use, the color wanted for the mortar joints determines the color of paint used.
3. The mask is applied to the surface covering door and window openings aligning the mask to one corner of a wall to allow 1/2 of a brick showing to look best.
4. Mix the material as instructed, it has a limited working time, so instead of working large areas do a wall at a time.
5. Spread the material about 1/8" thick over the entire working area.
6. Wait until the mix starts to set up to remove the mask. It's best to waste a little of the material on a couple of test to see how long before you can remove the mast with out destroying the whole thing, waiting to long can also be wrong.
7. when the mask is removed it will look like you did something wrong, don't try to work on the bricks, they will look better later on. 8. Set your structure aside and let it dry completely.
9. I use a sanding block with medium grit to carefully flatten the surface of the bricks, be extra careful around door and window openings. For a cut stone look carefully scrap the material of for that look.
10. I use a couple of coats clear sealer to set the material so that it won't rub or scrape off. The sealer I like is EZ-brick sealer.[get a picture of can] It can be bought at most places the sell remodeling materials. Magic Brick makes a flag stone kit also.

Note:

For a mix with a longer working time I have used a acrylic latex paint and water combination, "2/3's paint to 1/3 water". It may take days to dry but it looks and stays together better. The barber shop above was finished in this way.





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"Custom Brick Work."

After working with the "Magic Brick Kit" I started thinking how I could use a similar material for use in making models. Workers were laying floor tile at work and used a material to fill in the depressions and flaws in the finished concrete floor and it set up very fast.
I acquired a small amount and tried using it different ways for modeling. It set up in about eight minutes and when dried it has a very hard surface, I tried working it with my hand held Dremel Tool, it worked just fine, the dust it made was the big draw back.
As I rinsed the dust off under a faucet I noticed when wet the surface of material became soft enough to scrape away with a knife blade.
That was the start of making my "Custom Bricks and Stone Work". There are different types of floor leveling material to be found, you will have to fine the best for your use in modeling. The type I use is almost like dust and looks and feels like flour used in baking.


Below are some pictures of some buildings using the "Custom Brick" construction.

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"The Ground work."

 

I used a piece of 1/8" paneling as a work area for trial purposes. When you build your structure it should be made rigid enough to hold the weight of the siding material. I find that 1/8" plywood paneling works for me. I bought up a lot of damaged 1/8" paneling a few years back, real plywood not the composition type material .
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I wanted a way to put the mix on at an even depth, so I added a wood strip to edges of the plywood as a guide, put on the mix and used a steel rule resting on the guides to scrap off the extra mix to get an even depth of material. An 1/8" to 3/16" depth is about right for brick work, if making stone work you will want more depth to work with, a 1/4" or more depending on your design. Then set it aside to dry.
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"Making a Pattern to Work by."

With the surface of the model coated and dried it's time to layout the pattern for the brick or stone work. There are a lot of ways you can go about it. One is to lay out the brick work with a rule and pencil. I've reused the Magic Brick mask to lay out a pattern and it saves a lot of work .
 
 

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"Transfering Patterns from Pictures and Images"

I am working on way to lay down a pattern, and it looks like it has a lot of potential.
Using this method of transferring designs it could be possible to use a photo resized to scale for doors, windows or ornamental work.


Last up dated 09-05-01