Band Saw Jigs

"A Band Saw will be used for almost everything you want to do. If it was a toss-up between a bandsaw and scroll saw, "Take the bandsaw", it is the much more usable of the two. I have a two wheel Delta. Much easier to align and hold tension than a three wheel."
...Barry

"I have a Sears 12" saw that I bought a year after I bought a 9" El Cheap-O to see if I really needed or wanted a better saw. I haven't been sorry that I bought the bandsaw. I have a brand name scroll saw that gets used very little, [only where I have to cut inside of a hole]."

"IF you are cash shy or you aren't sure if you want a certain tool, buy a cheaper model and up grade later if you find that it is what you want. I sold my older saw at my yard sale and recouped half of what I paid for it beside having the use of it for the year that I was saving money for the bigger better saw."
...Lawrence Wallace

"I'd definitely go with a band saw over a scroll saw. I have both (a Delta 14-inch band saw and a Delta scroll saw). I purchased the scroll saw before I got the band saw, and haven't used it since. I run a very thin 1/4 inch blade on the band saw, and can do compound curves with ease. My scroll saw just sits, gathering dust. As a recreational woodworker for the past 20 years, I have learned one important thing ... when it comes to tools, you get what you pay for. Just my 2¢ ..."
...Tim, Pica Lumber Co RR

"A Collection of Band Saw Jigs."

The subject of band saw jigs comes up on the Forums every once in a while and to keep from rehashing over the subject or having to search the archives I have decided to put all of the jigs suggested by different people in one location for everyones use.

"Band Saw Jigs"

Made by
Lawrence "Yogi" Wallace

When cutting Planks- You will want to turn your work piece end for end and turn it over after a few cuts to get a more even cut as the wood will start to taper. "Don't ask me why because I don't know".

I use a 1/4" X 8 tooth blade when cutting my planks so they will have a unfinished lumber cut look. That is what I use for most of my buildings. I like the way it look. A barn just doesn't look right to me made with finished lumber.


My 12 inch Craftsman Band Saw	The Fence and Miter Gauge that came with my saw.Both are too big for some jobs that I want to do.	I made this to use in place of the Miter Gauge. It is a lot more convenient then the bigger gauge. I glued a piece of measuring tape on it to use as a rule when cutting.


I use this jig to make 45 degree cuts . I have a adjustable stop on it to make "repeat cut lengths".	This jig is for those long pieces needing a 45 degree cut.	I have few jigs preset at given angles for cutting roof rafters for my buildings. I measure and mark the rafter length on a long piece of wood cut to the width and thickness I need, then make the cut on the marks with the jig.


This size ripe fence is easier to use than the "Factory made one". I drilled a #7 hole into the front piece and use a 1/4" metal tap to make threads for the eye bolt. It works fine for me and cuts square. I use it when cutting planks or other making other rip cuts.	When cutting small parts there is nothing like having it go down into the opening in th saw table. That is why I have this Jig. The area can be made as wide as you want to handle larger pieces.	I use a jig like this when cutting plank lumber any size between 3/32" to 1/4". It's a quick setup and saves time.

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"Jig used to cut lighting grids for windows."


When using plastic lighting grid in making windows, the grid has to be cut in half. I found the plastic leaves residue when cut that sticks and drags in the opening of the table, so I made made a jig to help with the cutting.	I used two pieces of wood for this jig. one to rest the grid on and the other to hold the grid against the fence. If you try to cut the grid to fast the blade may drift, to slow and the plastic will heat up and melt.	Placing the grid on the bottom piece and hold the grid against the fence with the other piece. Then move the whole jig till the grid is cut through. With practice cutting the grid gets easier.

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"Here's a variation on a theme for a rip fence."

Made By
Duncan Thomas

I had the "stock" fence unit from Sears, but it was too high to get the blade guides down close enough to the stock, which led to a wavering blade. That equals inconsistent cuts. Not good when 1/32" to 1/16" variation in material thickness is critical.

Dwight's band saw fence looked bullet proof, but I didn't have any solid stock on hand. Yogi's looked promising, but I had some aluminum angle hanging around, and wanted something with a higher vertical surface to run the wood against... So a compromise was in order.

The first shot shows the basic fence. 1-1/2" aluminum angle, in an "H" pattern, that fits snuggly against the table front & back. Clamps to the front of the table for quick positioning.

Second shot shows the forward relief cut out for the blade guide/roller mechanism

Third shot shows the same relief, but from the out feed end.

Fourth shot shows the 3/8" plywood stiffener that is through bolted on each end. That's also the way that the cross pieces are attached to the fence itself. (duh!!)

Anyway, it works really well, adjusts very easily, and will give the possibility to cut little tiny shingles, if I so desire... Not likely, but it will do it.

Thanks to Dwight & Yogi for lending their talents!!!!
Duncan Thomson - Gilbert, AZ SDRR@.mylargescale.com

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"Jig to make 90 Degree cuts of given lengths."

First is a simple cross cut (90 deg.) fixture, for cutting predetermined lengths. The stop is a piece of scrap aluminum, that slips into a slot which is "X" inches away from the saw blade. This one goes into the throat of the saw, as the majority of the pieces I need are less than the twelve inch capacity of the saw.

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"Jig for making Bridge Bents."

The jigs I wanted to recreate were more for production cutting of pieces for trestle's & bridges... I already have a fence on there, plus the mitre gauge, just needed to make a jig for making repetitive cuts... (of set lengths, angles or both...) Thanks for the tries, though, and I THOUGHT it was Yogi that posted the original stuff...

The ideas are simply a variation of those that you've already developed. Slightly different approach to the solution, but one that works for me in a "production" setting. Setting lengths was a problem. I needed to build a few bents to figure out what was really needed and to stock up parts before starting construction. If I have a bunch of parts cut and ready for assembly, it will take a lot less time to crank out trestle bents, which will feed my desire for "instant gratification". Like I said before, I didn't want to reinvent the wheel, I just needed a nudge off of bottom dead center... Next on the plate will be jigs for Howe truss bridges, and plans for cribbing. Got some thoughts, just haven't taken the time to get them laid out and built... Duncan Thomson - Gilbert, AZ

The next little baby is set up to make the fifteen degree cuts (top and bottom) for my outer bent posts. There are four basic lengths that will cover most applications, and anything longer can be accommodated.

The stop block is simply attached at the appropriate length, and off we go...

The last one will set up for a seventy five degree cut for the inner legs of a multi story trestle. Where I need to put a second (or third) set of posts that are built at fifteen degrees off plumb.

If anybody wishes for further particulars, let me know... Duncan Thomson - Gilbert, AZ SDRR@.mylargescale.com