At the ECLSTS 2002 on the Connecticut Groups
modular set up I saw a Train Station built by Dave Snow with a
different type of window. I talked to Dave Snow and he explain
that the windows were made from a section of a 2' X 4' lighting
grid. I decided to make some for myself, and the following is how
I went about making it.
Before I saw Daves station I was using 1/2" hardware cloth
for frames in making windows. Now I am using Lighting grids for
frames.
"Those that know me, know that when I get and idea I
try to make it work by rigging something that will work, but it
always needs refined and worked on to make it practical for
others to use. The Following shows how to making windows using
some of my ideas. Including the old section using 1/2" hardware
cloth, "AKA - the bottom of the rabbit cage". Using the Plastic grid used as shades for
Fluorescent Lights has been a big help in making windows for
modeling. I have tried to cover all bases, if I missed something or left
something hanging in mid air let me know.
"Caution"
"The Plastic material and Heat Gun become very
hot when using them to make windows and can cause bad burns if
proper care isn't taken. Special handling includes apron and
gloves. When using a heat gun be careful of the fire hazard in
using them. The heat gun being turned off doesn't mean it is safe
to lay down near flammable items. Be careful where it is placed
until it has cooled completely."
My original base worked but was hard to
handle so it needed improved. I made a simple box 7" X 5" X
5-1/2" from wood I had lying around the shop. The sides are 1/2"
plywood the bottom is 1/4" paneling and the top is 3/8" plywood.
I drilled smaller holes for this base 3/16" instead of 1/8" in
the old base. The holes in the base are on 3/8" centers over the
whole surface of the base.
Using a hole saw I a hole in each end of the box. One close to
the bottom, for the vacuum hose, and another one in the middle
for my relief valve. I had to enlarge the hose hole a little to
fit the vacuum hose from the shop-vac. To cover the other hole I
used the bottom of a loose tea can, and attached it with a screw
to regulate the amount of suction to the base, as shown in the
picture.
Tools that you want to have on hand include, shop-vac, heat gun or hair drier, a pair of scissors, 12"ruler, flush cutting diagonal pliers,and sanding blocks of different grits.
The box for my vacuum-form is a 7" X 5" X 5-1/2", and has 3/32" holes drilled on 3/8" centers over the entire surface of the work area that I call the base.
Using a frame the same size as your window that hasn't been cut in half. The reason for using the thicker frame it keeps the plastic from touching the vacuum box base.
Put a piece of plastic over the frame, turn on the vacuum cleaner and the heat gun and carefully apply the heat to the plastic watching to see when it starts to shrink around the frame. With a little practice you will be turning out fist class windows for your models.
The material I am using now comes from Fluorescent Light grids for frames. You can also use 1/2" hardware cloth if you want.
The plastic I use for the windows is different thickness' and from different sources. Most of it comes from toy packages and anything that has clear plastic so you can see the contents. The thick plastic takes more heat and can warp the plastic frames when used.
Since I'm using plastic from toy packaging and other similar items, I cut the plastic at least 1" to 1-1/2" bigger then the window frame. It doesn't hurt to have the plastic even bigger as it helps to increase the vacuum on the plastic. The excess plastic will then be pulled down around the frame onto the base when heated.
After cutting your frame you will want to paint it before adding the window pains. I lay my frames on a flat surface and spray paint them.
I then trim the vacuumed plastic piece to fit the frame and glue it in place with CA cement. Another type of glue I like is the glue used to glue the canopy onto model airplanes. It takes longer to dry but dries clear and holds quite well.
When I first tried cutting the plastic I
found I had more than one problem. On the plastic reflector the
material tapers, the front is smaller than the back. You have to
watch if you are making a pair of windows that will be next to
each other, you will have to cut two sections so you will have a
matched pair because of the taper in the plastic. If you haven't
cut plastic before, you will find that as it is cut it also melts
and leaves a deposit where the blade leaves the material. This
deposit catches on the saw table behind the blade as you cut so
you will need a jig to hold the plastic as it is cut. Another
thing you have to watch is you fingers when cutting the plastic
down the middle. The last is getting a straight cut. I believe
the following will help in cutting the window frames.
To be safe and save your fingers, set the
plastic grid on the base piece of wood against the block you will use it when pushing the grid through the saw blade later.
Keep a steady pressure on the plastic against
the fence with a wood block as you feed the plastic into the
blade with the bottom piece of wood. You will have to use trial
and error on the feed speed into the saw blade.
After cutting the plastic it will have to be
trimmed to remove the deposits left by saw when cutting.
Frames after trimming are ready to use. Add
vacuum form window pains to get that finished look.
You can make your windows to any size you
want, using a pair of close cutting diagonal pliers. File or sand
the cutting points smooth around the frame.
The panes in the window can be flat plastic
sheet glued to the inside of the frame.
Better looking panes can be had by the Heat
and Vacuum method shown in
another section of this page.
This view shows a remodeled building with
windows and corrugated siding. I think window frames like those
shown can be made using the lighting grids.
A verity of shapes and sizes can be made from the lighting grids. click on the picture and notice in the upper left hand side, the plastic was pulled down onto the base and into some of the holes in the base. This was caused by two things, to much heat and vacuum.
In this picture the second from the right upper row, is a heavy piece of plastic and took a while to soften, then went all at once causing it to flatten on the base.
This is the effect you would get gluing a flat piece of plastic to the frame. The windows look much better after Vacuum forming the plastic.
Different style and shapes of windows are possible. Just look around and you will see different uses for your new windows. Even when the plastic in a window bottoms out on the base it is still usable, break some of it out and give the window some character, life is not perfect.
The old Wheeling Stamping company building in wheeling, WV. Was stripped and converted into office space. I only wish I could find pictures I have before the remodeling started. There are a couple pictures showing a open area where they added the stairs and elevator. This area was used to move heavy machinery in and out of the floors and had metal doors for access to each floor. The front of the building now, faced a alley and was a mess of piping, duck work, fans and what have you. They removed a block of buildings and stores turning the area into a parking lot. They have done a wonderful job on the remodeling.
On the bottom row left side, is a good idea on making down spouts for commercial buildings. Bottom middle is the north side of the building and the sandstone works in the background carried the main line of the B&O RR through Wheeling to Pittsburgh, PA.
