"Making Railing and Ladder's."


By Yogi Wallace


t42




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"Making Railing and Ladders."



Making Railing and Ladders has always been a time consuming project for me. Soldered a bunch of steel wire's together is a pain, joint's coming apart while soldering another part, cold solder joints, etc.. This being the case, I began looking for an easy way to make Railing and Ladder's.


"Hardware Cloth."

I found what I wanted in 1/2" square Hardware Cloth. "You know the wire on the bottom of a rabbit cage." With the 1/2" squares it is ideal for Railing and Ladders in LS modeling. Hardware Cloth usually comes in 3' or 4' width's. If you can find it in roll's, you can buy it by the foot, if not, then you can buy it pre-packaged in pre-cut length's at most hardware stores.

I paid $1.70 a foot when I bought mine. You can make a lot of Railing and Ladders from a 12" X 36" piece of hardware cloth.
Note: Hardware Cloth is available in, 1/8" and 3/8" size also. Which can be used by modeler's in other scale's . I have used the 1/8" over window's as security screen's on my industrial building's.



"Making Railing."


45a

You will need a few tools, a pair of flat duck bill pliers, a pair of wire snip's, Tin snip's and a grinding tool will probably do the job.

Start by cutting a piece of of hardware cloth four "cells" wide and as long as you need for your Railing. Cut the wires per the example in the picture. Using three of the four cells gives us our stanchion's and three rails . The fourth cell is used to attach the Railing to the model. After installing the Railing the extra length on the stanchion's can be cut off if it shows.

When you make a cut it leave's a small piece of wire and galvanize, that must be removed. There are a couple of ways to remove them. One is to grind it away, "Always use eye protection when grinding". Another way is to use a Burns-a-matic torch to melt the galvanize where the wire's cross and remove the galvanize and the wire at the same time. If you heat the wire to remove it, be careful and take proper precautions.
"Caution" Heating galvanize cause's it to gives off dangerous fumes, always use adequate ventilation.

You will notice I didn't remove the material between the third and fourth cells on the stanchion's. I left it on to use as a stop when installing the Railing, after painting it's not very noticeable, but it's up to the individual if they want to remove it or not. After you have made your Railing, you can bend it at one of the stanchion's to go around corners. You can paint your new Railing or put it on your model as galvanized Railing and let nature take it's course, and let it rust where ever it will.



"Making Ladder's."


39a

Now we will make a ladder for a storage tank or any other project where you need a ladder.

To start out let's cut a strip form the Hardware Cloth, three cell's wide and about four cell's longer than the you need for your ladder. The extra length will be used as a safety hand rail at the top of the tank or structure. Next cut off every other wire or cut two wire's in a row. The wire's we didn't cut will be used to mount the ladder to the tank or structure. Bend the remaining wire's at a right angle with pliers so you will have a sharp bend. Carefully bend the wire at the top of your ladder to form the safety hand rails.

That is all there is to making a ladder.
Now we need a tank to put it on.



"Making a Storage Tank."


42a

There are a lot of thing's laying around that can be turned into storage tanks or silo's for barns. Just to name a few. Quaker Oat boxes, PVC and Plastic pipe, the tube that carpet is rolled on, and tubes from paper towel's, make small storage tanks. There is no hard fast rule, that I know of for making storage tank's. If it looks good to you, that's all that count's. The top of the tank isn't that hard to make. It doesn't take a lot of math to make the top. I measure the outside of the tube, box or what ever I'm using. If I want 1/4" over hang I add 1/2" to 5/8" of an inch to what the tank top measure's. Use a compass to draw a circle on poster board, cut it out, then cut a 3/4" to 1" piece of pie out of the circle. I use a piece of dowel to score the under side of the top piece from the center to the edge, and gently bend a curve to the top, till the gap in the top comes together, then glue the two edge's together. You now have a tapered top for the tank.

To add the ladder to the tank. Use a pencil to mark two light line's down the side of the tank, about 5/8" apart, where you are going to put your ladder. Mark where the bottom of the ladder will be. Where you mark the holes for the ladder depend's on how you cut the ladder. If you cut every other wire you, put the first mark 1/2" up from the bottom of the tank. Then 1" apart to the top of your ladder. Using a small drill, drill the holes to mount the ladder at the marks. Work the wires into the holes and glue them. When the glue dries, work the safety rails into the top of the tank.

Add some filling, over flow, and vent piping. a platform and inspection plates or anything else you want. Give everything a couple of coats of paint. Add a homemade logo and your tank is ready for the layout.

I have had E-mail telling me that they like this new format, but when they wanted to save it. Each photo had to be brought up and save individually. This takes a lot of time. So for Mark and others. I have added a link to all of the Photo's used in the article, so that they can all copied at one time. Photo's.